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Builder Name:Preston Kavanagh   -  
Project:   Cozy - Mark IV   -   VIEW REPORTS
Total Hours:4433.6
Total Flight Time:
Total Expense:$33393.25
Start/Last Date:Sep 01, 2003 - No Finish Date
Engine:IO-360-A3B6D
Propeller:Hertzler Silver Bullet 66 x 78
Panel:Garmin G3X + ipad
 
Friendly URL: https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=Cozy4

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Mar 27, 2004     Cutting Jigs and Laminating Longerons - (4.5 hours)       Category: C05 Fus Side
Materials were ordered with the parts for chapter 4. However, I discovered that some new items were needed:
1/8" sheet tempered hardboard
1/4" sheet plywood (for last step Chapter 4, I bought it with this batch of materials)
Two pieces 1"x8"x8' pine board

Cutting the jigs was a pain because I have no bandsaw and my jigsaw is broken. I did all possible cuts on the table saw and miter saw, but had to resort to handle tools for most of the cuts. I normally enjoy such work, but the curve on FJA got old by around the third copy. I should have used my router and a template bushing. Anyway, I switched to a Sawz-All and metal-cutting bit and that made quick work of this step with a surprisingly smooth edge. It's only pine, after all.

I haven't built the second of my two workbenches (see Chapter 4) and my temporary table is warped and the wrong height. Here's another ideal task for a $5 sheet of drywall. It makes my 6' table 8' long, and it's all but disposable (heck, it costs the same as hardboard), although I've covered it with plastic to avoid marring it. The first layup will hang out about 3" off each end, but the jigs are stiff enough to tolerate this. I'm delaying making the second workbench to summer, when I move the project into the garage.

Gluing up the longerons went per the plans, minus the tedious nails. My woodworker's instincts told me to use yellow glue between the longeron strips but I resisted and stuck with the instructions. I ended up double-coating each strip because the MGS soaked in so well. The second picture shows some of the clamps I used in my dry run. Always do dry runs to make sure you won't run out of clamps!

I didn't realize what people meant by moving the F28 doubler back a half inch to allow for F28 itself being moved back until I had finished this step. Fortunately the glue-ups hadn't cured yet so I was able to remove the nails and slide it down. I wasn't sure exactly how far to move it, so I eyeballed it at about half an inch and I'll trim it later if I have to.

Unfortunately, when I installed the 15.5" doublers one of them crept down below the longeron a bit (about 1/16"). I had to use the Fein to trim flush, which worked great so no real complaints.


 


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